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It finally went!

Last Saturday, Swan Lake 25/7a+ went down. I first tried the route in 2013, but before I could complete it my right knee blew out.

The line is superbly aethetic and takes you into crazy world of knee-bars, funky toe-cams and through an exquisite roof onto a pumpy, tiring head wall that proved to mess with my head.

It has become my first grade 25 and I'm starting to feel like a real rock climber. The process to get to this point was extremely trying. Training smart, which involves hard, consistant training while listen ones body (I never want to hurt myself the way I did!). Swan Lake had been on my mind for 3 years, which made it mentally very stressful. I wanted it so bad that it began to inhibit my climbing ability. Training your mind, as I've found, is as important as training your body. Visualisation became a daily exercise, where I'd mentally put myself onto route, figuring out every move and controlling my anxiety.

I'm happy and a little bit sad that its over. Some routes are forgotten, however this route will always be imprinted on my psyche.



Passing it on

The Cederberg has become over the past couple of years an extraordinary playground. My friends and I eagerly escape the congestion of the city for a chilled hike, a long run, or a spectacular climb where we are always in complete awe of the dark starry nights and the prestine landscape. It’s just over 2 hours out of the city, nonetheless, you always return from a weekend feeling worked, satisfied and relaxed like you’ve been gone for weeks.

I’m fortunate enough to have been born in an environment where I have been pushed to get out to the mountains. Sometimes I marvel at Cape Townions who say they’ve never been there. Part of me is annoyed because I feel like people waste their time in front of the TV and in cramped shopping centres. This is a flawed view of mine, due to the simple fact that a large number of people can’t afford to get out to these natural wonders. While my friends and I aren’t loaded, we have some expendable cash, equipment, training, and access to a car. This is a lot more than a large amount of the population.

This obvious discrimination plays on my psyche as well as on the minds of a number of my friends who share the same passion for places like the Cederberg.

A couple weeks ago, Henko got hold of me pitching the idea for taking some youth from a township just outside of Cape Town to the Cederberg. I immediately said, “Yes”!

Henko, Marine, Lani, De wet and I headed through to the Cederberg. 5 guys and 5 girls who had all never seen the Cederberg before arrived to pitch their tents in Sanddrift Camp beneath the almighty Wolfberg. Henko did an incredible job of organising pretty much everything. That night everyone crowded around a healthy fire to fend off the chill and have a warm meal. The following day we were all going up to the awesome “Cracks”, which I expected to be a serious day out for the group.

Morning dew blanketed our tents and a little after 9am we headed off. The hike is steep and the rocks were slippery. The 5 guys surprised us with their fast pace while a number of the girls struggled to acclimate to the harsh terrain. We did our best to keep everyone together but, slowly, the group was divided into a fast team and a slow team. By the time we reached the “Cracks” some of the group had eaten most of their packed lunch and looked a little worse-for-wear, however, everyone kept soldiering on. Through the cramped chimneys, the group stayed together to help one another, which was wonderful to watch.

We arrived at the top around lunch time. Some were shattered and stretched out in the sun. The goal was to take them all to the “Arch”, however, we decided to split the group. Henko and Lani took half of the group down back to camp while Marine, De wet and I headed off at a quick pace for the “Arch”. I’ve got to say, even though none of these guys had been on a proper mountain hike before they didn’t seem to take too much of a beating! We arrived at the aesthetic landmark in no time at all, we rested, munched on some bars, and examined the cheekiest little Rockjumpers. After sometime basking in the sun we headed back.

Everyone looked worked but happy when we arrived back at the camp. They demolished a sizable amount of hot-chocolate, peanuts, and hot dogs and after a warm meal, we went through to the Cederberg Observatory, something I’d always wanted to do. That evening a passionate astronomer taught us about our galaxy while we played with some cool instruments that let us study the ocean of stars above our heads from a different perspective.

Everyone went rock climbing on the final day. Marine and I had to leave a bit earlier to drop off gear but the rest of the team had a remarkable time at the crags.

The weekend was fun and a serious learning experience for me. I feel like these types of trips need to be a lot more regular and aimed at younger kids, though. I was shocked when we caught some members of the group discarding their trash in the velt. It angered us because we are always extremely careful about leaving no trace and this was so disrespectful to the area that we were enjoying. Nonetheless, when we saw the state of their township where trash is scattered everywhere, we understood that we could not blame them for something that is so common in their community.

It all starts with us, the mountain goats and outdoor fanatics, who must pass on our knowledge to those who need it if we want to see our wilderness appreciated and protected.

 Thanks to the Mike Horn Young Explorers Program and CAPESTORM for sponsoring the weekend! All pictures (C) Lani Van Niekerk   

















Stories from a rain whipped cave

Returning to the Cederberg this time around was a stark contrast to our dirt bagging trip in January.  Due to the incredible heat Henko, my half-brother-half polar-bear amigo, and I climbed the outstanding  textured red walls the Cederberg had to offer. Only stepping out in the early mornings and late afternoons to avoid the heat. We searched for crags that never got sun and when we were beaten by the warmth we retreated to this deep, airy cave where we’d sleep, eat and stay as cool possible.

This time around, we left Cape Town while the Cape lashed the peninsula with hurricane force winds and rain. Even the dry-old Karoo was, thankfully, hit by the storm. We eventually arrived in Truitjieskraal. The walls were drenched and we wrapped ourselves in layers of down and waterproof gear. I missed the heat!   

The storm slowly fizzled out and the pink-orange rays began to bring warmth into our cave. The day that followed saw us chasing after the walls with light and avoiding the shadows. The rock in Truijties was hard and my shoes stuck like glue. I managed to send a project called Schlot Machine that had been a psychological barrier a month before. The first time I got onto it I was scared, pumped and bailed off, however, I’ve been working on my fear tolerance. Working with Matt Bush, where he helps me with my technique and we use visualisation to managed fear. He uses it when he free-solos extremely difficult routes- I guessed he knew what he was doing when I signed up! When I got to the top I felt so happy that, yes I’d climbed the route, but I’d broken through this mental blockade that had been preventing me the whole time.

Henko climbed like a champ and we had a warm, filling feast that evening. We needed to refuel for our Rooiberg the following day.

Rooiberg is a proud wall with an abundance of trad lines. We chose a mellow route called Blunt Brothers. It's 5 pitches and we climbed freely and confidently the whole way up. The second last pitch is the hardest of them all, starting with a clean, beautiful crack. My gear was secure and easy to place, this made me relaxed and confident. There's a traverse onto a blank looking face and then you find another crack system higher up. I traversed onto the face, my feet felt good and then while climbing up to the last crack the “good” foothold I’d be relying on blew. I fell about a metre and then, somehow, I caught myself! I couldn’t believe it. Henko stared at me in dismay as I thrashed around trying to find a foot but I’d broken the only one! I shouted a frenzy of self-motivating phrases as I lunged for another hold only to rip a large horn-like hold from the mountain, luckily not hitting my belayer below.

Topping out at Rooiberg was a relief and we felt triumphant. I had sadly got a cam stuck during the route, which is costly and depressing, nonetheless losing gear, getting scared, feeling tired and beaten up is what makes the summits so beautiful. I missed this most of all about climbing.    

Thanks t Henko for the pics:



Early mornings + late nights 

This past week has been exciting and inspiring, yet my weekly quota of sleep has been in deficit.

Climbing isn't like any other sport. Unlike a run or heading to the gym, it takes hours! 4 hours in the hills counts as a short day out, which is problematic when you have work, uni, dogs to walk and other commitments.

In 2013, I had a rather horrible nervous and physical breakdown during the planning of KAPE2ATACAMA. It was due to an unsustainable obsession with planning, work, and training. I didn't give my friends or family enough time in my life and the stress of everything stacked up. Since then I made a commitment to keeping a healthy balance and trying to simplify rather than complicate. It may sound like I'm doing everything other than simplify, however, I believe I'm doing a pretty good job at balancing out things. 

The past week has been great in regards to my climbing progression. I've been working on ways to dealing with stress through visualisation and even though I have a lot of work to do, I'm feeling a lot more confident and I sent 2 projects of mine.

In respect to KAPE 2 Kalahari, I have just spent a large chunk on change on fancy new tubeless tires and I found some second-hand panniers. As preparation comes along I'm getting even more excited to hit the road. 

My assignments have been going in on time and I'm starting to brace myself for test week.

All and all, I'm happy. Nonetheless, I feel like a little more sleep will be much appreciated by this stiff body of mine.

Happy Freedom Day!



Climbing, Biking and Becoming a Better Me - Lets get started!


It’s been a while since my last entry but I've been rather busy with to hustle and bustle of life. I'm currently a full-time student at the University of Cape Town and I'm going to be here for a good couple of years- which is scary! 

I've been fortunate enough to live out my passion and travel to some superb places while promoting my cause, MyKape. Nonetheless, it feels like a lifetime ago since I was trudging up Mt. Kenya or floating around on a boat in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean.

Since I returned from South America in August 2014, I have been studying law, with my hope to use this to assist NGO'S in the future as well as working in the middle of the central Karoo on the Karoo Predator Project. On top of all of that, I finally found a girlfriend, Marine, which was some kind of a relief for my family! Living in the Karoo, working on an incredible project and studying really kept me busy. Since mid-2015, I moved back to Cape Town where I got stuck back into climbing after a year off.

With all of that going on, the fire to do the next trip to a far-flung destination with pointy peaks and a project has been growing in ferocity. I'd love to get back into a boat and head off, however, my sights are set on climbs, projects and places far more unique and beyond my current ability. When I started my adventures I was really young and naive. The climbs I did were impressive for my age and I built some kind of name for myself due mainly to my unique KAPE 2 Expeditions that included epilepsy awareness and environmental projects. 

Today, I'm not hat old but I'm 22 years old and I know I have to become better at what makes me, me. My community work and my awareness projects, my climbing and becoming a lot more skilled across the board is something I need to work on. By the time the next BIG expedition comes I want it to be more effective and more impressive. I want the programs in the communities that we work in to be up-to-date, to the point and enrich, upskill and improve the lives of those who we connect with. In my climbing and mountaineering life, I want to climb harder, be wiser and feel the walls and reach the summits of mountains that I have dreamed constantly about for a year. I’ve had a great introduction and know I need to make it better! 

I have, however already started and this is what I've come up with so far: 

  • I'm working my arse off at Uni (and loving it) 
  • I'm still studying Spanish and I've started French (Marine has been a star at making my life difficult in another language- I'm very grateful, though)
  • I've planned a cycle touring to the Kalahari in June. It’s called KAPE 2 KALAHARI! 
  • I've started training with one of the best rock climbers in South Africa and one of the boldest free soloists on the planet, Matt Bush. 530am starts! 
  • I'm also still working, sporadically for the KPP

 I'm writing about this now because now I'm accountable ;) 

Also, I'd like to share how anything worth doing takes a lot of hard work and passion. There's a little bit of luck involved but it all comes down to hard work and wanting to do more.